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Do you want to change the look and style of a particular room in your home? Why not give it a fresh coat of paint? It can make a big difference for relatively little cost. Watch this video to learn how to prime and paint a room just like the pros do it.

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Painting a room is one of the easiest ways to add a fresh look to a room without the expense of remodeling or redecorating. Perhaps that’s why interior painting is one of the most common do-it-yourself, home improvement projects. With a couple gallons of primer and paint, and the right tools and know-how, you can give a fresh look to any room in your house in just a few hours.

While in the last video you learned how to Prep a Room for Painting, in this video, we’ll take you through the steps of priming and painting a room, which require the same basic procedures. We’ll teach you where to start the process, and share some tools and techniques used by professional painters that will help you get the best results possible. So let’s get started.

The place to start any painting project is by cutting in a border between the ceiling and the walls and between the walls and any trim, such as baseboards and window and door casing.

To cut in a straight paint line, you need the right tools. Cutting in is brushwork, and the brush you need depends on the type of paint you’re using. Today we’re using both a latex primer tinted to the finish color as well as latex paint, so we’ll need a brush with synthetic bristles. My tool of choice is a 2-inch angled sash brush because it fits my hand. However, you might prefer a 2-1/2” or 3-inch brush with either angled or straight bristles. It’s all a matter of preference, so choose what feels right for you. For more information on choosing the right paint brush, see our list of Frequently Asked Questions specific to this video.

You’ll also want a paint pail with a comfortable hand strap grip. This helps me keep the paint near the work area to speed the process along. It also has a disposable liner for convenience.

When dipping the brush in the paint, cover the bristles about half way to the metal ferrule, then blot the excess paint on the side of the pail wall before smoothing away any additional excess paint on the lip of the pail. This loads the brush with the proper amount of paint for cutting in.

The trick to cutting in a straight line is to sneak up on the line while the brush is moving. First, start brushing about an inch away from the trim line. Then work your way in to the line while keeping the brush moving along the line. This is a technique used by pros, so if you aren’t completely comfortable, mask first with masking tape. But use the same technique, even if you have tape in place.

Your cut-in needs to be at least 3-inches wide … enough to allow you to keep your roller a comfortable distance away from the ceiling or trim.

With the room cut-in, now it’s time to start rolling on our primer coat. Again, the right equipment makes all the difference. Here I have a roller frame, a roller cover with a 3/8-inch nap, and a roller pan with a plastic pan liner. I also have an extension pole that screws into the fame of the roller, easily extending my reach to the ceiling without having to be on a ladder.

Like loading a brush with paint, loading a roller with paint also takes some practice. Start by rolling down the paint tray ramp into the paint. When you get one side of the roller covered in paint, lift it up and continue rolling down the ramp into the paint until the roller cover is loaded with just enough paint. Don’t saturate the roller cover. Roll off any excess on the paint ramp.

Whether you are priming or painting, when using a roller the best place to start is in the center of a wall so you can work your way to the edges, making sure to stay within your cut-in line.

The technique I’m using here is rolling a series of angles resembling the letter M. This quickly spreads paint to a larger surface area, which avoids putting too much paint in one spot. Next, go back and fill in the voids, loading the roller with more paint as needed. Work in smaller, manageable sections, filling in one area before moving on to the next. And finish one wall completely before starting another.

If you have too much paint in the roller or if you press the roller cover against the wall with too much pressure, you’ll see paint marks along the outside edges of the roller. Try to avoid this. If you do get paint lines, roll them out immediately applying less rolling pressure.

When you’re finished rolling on the primer coat, let it dry, then give the entire room a light sanding with a fine grit sanding sponge. Don’t sand too aggressively, you’re just trying to remove any primer blemishes and smooth the surface for the first coat of paint.

Go over it with a tack cloth to remove any dust and repeat the same procedure using paint instead of the primer. Depending on the color you choose and the quality of paint, you may need two coats of paint in additional to the primer coat. Just be sure to lightly sand between each coat.

There you have it. There’s nothing that looks better than a fresh coat of paint.

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  1. 1.prep the room

    To prep the room before painting, watch our video.

  2. 2.scrap off excess paint

    Scrape off excess paint from the paint brush into the paint pail. This will minimize dripping.

  3. 3.paint band around edges

    Paint a band around the edges where the roller can't reach. For trimming, slowly slide down the edge line with the brush.

  4. 4.paint with roller

    Paint large areas with a paint roller. Paint in small sections in a series of angles resembling an 'M'. This provides best coverage.

  5. 5.let it dry and sand

    Let it dry and give the entire room a light sanding.

  6. 6.remove dust

    Rub dust off with a tack cloth.

  7. 7.repeat

    If the color isn't even, apply a second coat.


Project Faqs « back to project

What is back priming?

It means priming the backside of the siding. You should also prime the cut edges so the wood is completely sealed from... More »


Where do I start when painting an interior wall?

Use an angled brush to trim the perimeter of the room and around door and window... More »

Do I need to prime my ceiling before painting it?

While it’s always a good idea to prime before painting, unless you ceiling has stains, you probably don’t need to because it doesn’t take the... More »

The inside of my grill needs painting. What type of paint should I use?

If you need to touch up the paint on the non-porcelain surfaces of your grill, such as the endcaps or the cook box, use a high heat-resistant... More »

How do I caulk baseboard and trim around window and doors before painting?

First, cut a small hole 1/8th of an inch from the tip of the spout at an angle. Don’t cut off too much of the tip. Then, most caulk guns come with... More »

Can I avoid scraping the peeling paint off the exterior of my home by using a pressure washer before painting?

It is not advisable. Pressure washers should only be used for removing dirt, mildew and algae that can lead to premature paint failure. Flaking... More »


What type of caulk should I use on trim before painting?

Use siliconized acrylic latex caulk. It tends to be more flexible and has better adhesion. This will prevent cracks later... More »

Once I mix the epoxy base with the hardener, when can I start painting the floor?

It varies by manufacturer, but some of the more common products require a 30 minute set up time minimum before using. They, you have 2½ hours... More »

What type of masking tape should I use before painting?

Use tape that is designated as painters tape. This tape is usually blue or green in color. It is designed to provide excellent masking capabilities,... More »

I have textured ceilings. What nap of roller cover should I use?

It depends on how textured the ceiling is. If it’s slightly textured, a 3/8-inch or a ½-inch nap roller cover should work well. If it’s... More »

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